As NYFW rolls around, there is nothing left for us other than to prepare ourselves for an intense eye/brain stimulation. From where fashion is headed (questions in gender fluidity, body type varieties, lack of ethnic representations, ethical fabrics, out-of-the-box ideas, anarchism, slogan tees, defining grey areas, designer musical chairs etc.) I am eager to see what the industry has to offer to us each fashion week, whether it’s a men’s or a women’s or even couture week.
Menswear has been inspiring me more than ever these days with the recent Fall 2018 Menswear runways including Gosha Rubchinskiy, Dior, Jil Sander, Louis Vuitton and Off White since I want to believe in the eventual presence of gender fluidity in fashion houses when it comes to a silhouette for a certain occasion or a brand and I can certainly see some designers putting a lot of effort into realising it. Until the time comes, I will just sit back and watch men and women collections melt into each other every season until they become impossible to separate from one another.
A girl can dream.
So here I am, with my most basic human instinct for sharing, sharing what made me feel something far greater than me.
Here is a quote on fashion, an ensemble of words far greater than my words, by none other than Leandra Medine in her recent article on “What is the point of fashion?”
“Fashion is so much more than just clothing for the people who feel they can let it in; it can become the greatest sum of her parts, a megaphone for articulation where words simply will not work. It can be a drug-free boost that makes a terrible day seem slightly better, a reminder through the depths of desperation that even if nothing else is going as I’ve planned, I’m armed.”
Stick with me for coverages and images of the most outstanding looks by Alexander Wang, Adam Selman, Ulla Johnson, Creatures of Comfort, Raf Simons, Tibi and Mansur Gavriel in this post. Hopefully I will continue with more reviews as the collections keep rolling in to the Vogue Runway app.
e n j o y !
With his Le Specs collab, Adam Selman had the eyes on him for a while now. With a fun, colourful, edgy show, he showed one more time what to expect from the brand. 80s was the main theme and graphics were fairly used on dresses and tops; pop imagery references with vibrant colours were what the collection stood upon. You could see some kind of an animal print in almost every look. From slip dresses to sweaters, there were zebra prints all over. As a fan of the canadian tuxedo himself, Selman created two full denim looks, excluding the one he wore at the end when he came to salute the audience. I am excited to see where he heads on from here and places himself in the industry.
As yet another Wang show takes place in the middle of the city, this time models became sexy business women instead of a lets-party-till-dawn girls. Portraying a more serious yet a very real side of his life, Alexander Wang expressed himself with these words regarding the collection:
“It felt timely to do a collection that reflects a different part of my life, everyone knows the partying me, but I actually go to work more than I party.”
Hardware played a great role this season with various forms of chains and zippers as well as material mixing with leather skirts and shearling tops. Wang finally incorporated some bright pink after all that millennial pink talk, though let’s not forget the pink graphic sweatshirts from spring 2017. He obviously channeled some Matrix in the collection (jet black looks and sunnies) and office vibes. Appearance of certain words such as “platinum” or “CEO” comes as no surprise since sharp messages are all over fashion right now that chances are you are wearing a slogan tee or a hoodie as you are reading this, is very high. Wang definitely stepped up the bag game with fur and diamond pouches, zip detailing and chains. As edgy they look right now on the runway, they will become staple pieces of many wardrobes by the time autumn comes.
As much as I can resonate with the criticism he may be getting on portraying a certain kind of a woman, in his case a bold, fearless, skinny and sometimes unrealistically confident, not everybody has to design for a broad group of people. We need the unthinkable to incorporate the impossible into our everyday lives. After all, isn’t this fashion is all about? Slipping in and out of identities when needed and acknowledging that there are plural me‘s in all of us that need nurturing.
Raf Simon’s runway was a feast, literally. Bottles of champagne, fruit and vegetables, bread and cheese and cakes complemented the real feast Simons created for your eyes. Knee patches, modernised combat boots, wrongly worn turtleneck jumpers, puffed yet structured jackets and layered monochrome looks have spilled out of that genius mind of his. Abbreviations such as LSD and XTC and the word “drugs” were written on scarves as part of the whole layering situation and on the aforementioned knee patches. Whether he placed the words to open a conversation on addiction or simply as an act of embracing taboos, I loved it.
I hope my next autumn/winter looks more or less like this, please feel free to throw this prayer around to the people you love the most so that they know you really love them and want the best for them.
Ulla Johnson has been a brand I observed from a distance from people who are more likely to wear it on a daily basis than myself. But as a huge believer in flexibility within one’s own personal style, this show has done more than dropping my jaw. I scrolled through the photos thinking what could be better than this ensemble yet loving each look more than the previous. With layered dresses over sparkly knits, pumps over best thighs I have ever seen this season so far (mustard-pistachio green!) and amazing florals, Ulla Johnson has won me over. I saw a confident, femininely strong woman who doesn’t let her interest in fashion minimise her intellect. I hope you do too.
CREATURES OF COMFORT
What a name for a brand! I have to thank Man Repeller (as I do for most things) for including at least one Creatures of Comfort piece in almost every editorial. Every time I wanted to learn who does a certain pair of pants or a sweater in a look, it turned out to be Creatures of Comfort. They have a versatile vision who consists of checkered jackets and heavy raincoats, patterned dresses and utility jackets, oxford shoes and sock-pump combos and a great silhouette you never even knew you needed.
Although it was possible to trace some similar silhouettes to Céline or Raf Simons, Creatures of Comfort is definitely on the right track to find its unique voice. I am pretty sure the high waisted belted chunky pants and the striped boyfriend shirt duo feels as good as the dainty satin slip dress.
A woman can be everything and anything. Huge thanks to Jade Lai for reminding us that.
Tibi oh Tibi!
As much as I would like to keep my words on monochromacy to Mansur Gavriel, Tibi has been very successful in the subtle art of monochromatic looks too. It is for sure that a “Tibi Woman” is in the midst of shaping slowly but permanently in front of our eyes. Colour blocking has been a huge component of the collection and since I love a bit of contrast, Tibi’s clothes tells us more than we even realise.
Amy Smilovic made it clear that Tibi would never be a “logo brand” but will gather attention and become known with certain silhouettes and colours. The satin dresses, trench coats, flowy suit pants tucked into boots, handbags carried in the crook of the arms and huge knitwear pieces are forming a Tibi language. What was surprisingly pleasing to see are bermuda shorts and long cowboy boots in such a harmony. Good thing I never lost my bermuda believer self and already own a tailored black pair.
After its well earned reputation with amazingly crafted and simple leather goods, Mansur Gavriel decided to hop on the ready-to-wear trend last season with double-sided wool and cashmere coats, knitwear that very quickly became the must-have pieces of people’s wardrobes and many more; thus everybody was extremely excited what was yet to come from them this season.
As I mentioned, monochrome would be the only word to describe the collection but to be fair, there was more to it. Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur have clearly gone through several beauty perceptions of women of the past few decades and created a Jacquemus-like French Riviera woman alongside a naive, mature, straightforward one. This woman neither has a certain age nor sexual orientation.
See-through pieces ran along the collection; hopefully a representation of the necessity of transparency in one’s character. Pale yellows, pinks, lilacs and blues proved wearing colours don’t have to be scary at all. Beautiful beige and black ensembles kept the rest of the collection grounded, making stripes and paler colours reasonable enough to wear if you are like me and prefer greys, black, navies or browns better.
Mansur Gavriel makes it look simple and effortless; focusing on the woman wearing the clothes instead of the actual garments. I hope they continue to do so.
I am heavily inspired by and proud of the trajectory of both the designers and fashion itself are going. I feel more free than ever to play around with cuts, silhouettes, textures and layers.
To try and hear my feelings when I scroll through runway shows is what helps me get up everyday and dress my persona, what makes me daydream of what is yet to come in my relationship with fashion.
As the industry now holds value over more than just dressmaking and sales, (regarding race, body image, fur policies, gender issues etc.) I, as an enthusiast also feel the responsibility to develop a responsive facet.
I should also note that the best inspiration, in my opinion comes for sure from street style photography or preferably the actual witnessing of it. (Phil Oh is so good- @mrstreetpeeper on Instagram)
Allow me to do list of a few articles for you to go read on the latest discussions on NYFW and fashion in general. See you very soon!
on Raf Simons’ Drug mentions (DAZED)
on why The Matrix feels relevant in fashion (DAZED) (personal favourite)
on the power of Mansur Gavriel and Tibi shows (Man Repeller)
on quick questions on NYFW: day 2 (Man Repeller)